Nestled within the Bankura District of West Bengal, amid a tapestry of nondescript villages, lies the twin village of Hadal-Narayanpur, distinguished by the grandeur of its terracotta temples and mansions. Despite its proximity — just 60km from Bankura and a mere 38km from Bishnupur — it remains a hidden treasure, largely overlooked by mainstream tourism. Yet, for connoisseurs of undiscovered architectural wonders, this unassuming Bengal hamlet holds the promise of an unforgettable day of exploring.
For an introduction to the village, I recommend consulting my prior blog post on Baro Taraf. There, you’ll find an overview of the former Mandal family estate, bequeathed to the eldest brother in the 1850s amidst the family’s decline in fortunes, primarily attributed to the waning indigo trade.
This current post delves into the crown jewel of Mejo Taraf, the Mandal family estate passed down to the middle brother, and more specifically the Radha Damodar Temple, arguably the pièce de résistance among all the monuments in Hadal-Narayanpur village.
Standing at a towering 35 feet, the Radha Damodar Temple is a masterpiece, unmatched in both the quality of craftsmanship and the richness of its terracotta art. It rivals renowned terracotta temples found in popular destinations such as Bishnupur or Ambika Kalna.
Situated adjacent to a tranquil water body, the temple’s focal point is a meticulously crafted and remarkably well-preserved terracotta depiction of the Battle of Ramayana, set in the presence of Goddess Durga. This centerpiece adorns the central panel above the triple-arched entrance. While the theme of the Ramayana battle is common in Bengal’s terracotta temples, the iconography here is strikingly unique.
During the translation of the Ramayana from Sanskrit to Bengali, Krittibus Ojha infused the narrative with the creative tale of Ram’s worship of Durga on the eve of the great battle, a motif that later became ubiquitous in terracotta temple art across Bengal. Thus, it’s no surprise that the divine presence of Mahishashurmardini graces the central arch panel, embodying Durga as a fierce warrior wielding formidable weapons.
Flanked by Ram and Ravana locked in combat, she presides over a tumultuous battlefield teeming with soldiers. To her left, Ram descends from his chariot, reverently standing before her, while Ravana exudes regal magnificence. The attention to detail is remarkable, with even a bold monkey attempting to grab Ravana’s bow.
What’s particularly noteworthy is the parity afforded to Ram and Ravana in the artisans’ execution, depicting Ravana not merely as a demon, but as a formidable equal to Ram.
Adjacent to this scene, another panel portrays Vishnu reclining on a bed of serpents, attended to by his consort Lakshmi. In one corner, Krishna is depicted being accompanied by a man and a woman.
On the opposite panel, a rare composition emerges, merging the figures of Ram and Krishna into one entity. With a bow and arrow in hand, and a flute in the other, this figure embodies a unique terracotta fusion. Additionally, the panel features a dancing Lord Chaitanya, emblematic of the influence of his Vaishnava cult movement within Bengal’s Hindu community.
The centerpiece on one of the other temple elevations depicts Ganesha sitting on a mouse, sometimes alternatively interpreted as a rat.
The rat represents desires and ignorance. By sitting on and controlling the rat, Ganesha demonstrates his ability to overcome desires and ignorance. This symbolizes Ganesha’s wisdom and ability to guide people away from materialism.
Rats can also travel easily through small spaces and reach destinations quickly. Sitting on a rat represents Ganesha’s ability to overcome obstacles and reach his goals quickly.
Thankfully the Radha Damodar Temple still retains a vintage feel, and has yet to be subjected to any excessive makeover by the application of new paint. At our next destination, Choto Taraf, one can get to see the impact of such “maintenance”, which personally I am not a great fan of.
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Categories: Hadal-Naryanpur, India, Mejo Taraf – Hadal-Narayanpur, West Bengal
Kevin Standage 
Amazing. As you say, such high quality and such monumental size. I go to this area annually, to work with Ramkrishna Vivekananda Mission at Purulia. So Handal-Narayanpur is on the to-visit list for next time. Thanks so much for alerting me to yet another of India’s wonders. L
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