Sudhagad Fort

India

By kevinstandagehotography on September 21, 2023 • ( 7 Comments )

Maha Darwaja – Sudhagad Fort

Situated 53km west of Pune and 26km south of Lonavala, Sudhagad makes for a great day excursion out of the city to a fort that receives very few visitors compared to some of the more popular forts in the vicinity. Scaling to a height of 620m above sea level, the 90 minute trek to the summit is relatively straightforward with a clear well-marked path taking you through the Sudhagad wildlife sanctuary. While the trek itself is well worth doing, there is plenty to explore around the summit plateau to keep you occupied for a few hours before returning back down.

My trek started from the village of Thakurwadi immediately south of Sudhagad Fort. There is ample parking just outside Raigad ZP Primary School Daryagaon (as marked on Google Maps), from where you head east for 50m towards a cluster of houses and then turn left (north). The path you are now on will take you all the way to the summit :-). Initially the terrain is quite open with low lying vegetation on a gentle incline. Before reaching the first of two sets of metal stairs, look out on your left for a small cluster of stone carved samadhis not far from the path.

Left : One of a few Samadhi’s to be seen to the trek up
Right : The approach to the first flight of metal stairs

These clearly have some age to them, but I don’t know if they actually mark the location of a burial of some nature, or whether they are memorial stones to a lost individual. As you will see later on in this blog, there were plenty more Samadhi’s and hero stones to look at within the fort itself.

Having scaled the metal stairs, the terrain soon becomes steeper with more dense vegetation. About halfway up you will come to the remains of the first structures associated with Sudhagad fort. Depending on the time of year these may be hard to make out as only the first couple of courses of masonry survive, but clearly there were once structures here which have been interpreted as guards quarters.

Remains of structures en-route to the summit of Sudhagad Fort

This makes perfect sense, a checkpoint for anyone wishing to enter the fort, but also a place of lookout in case the fort comes under threat. It is from this point onwards that you get a real sense that something significant lies ahead, the rough path morphs into well constructed stone steps, and soon you reach Pacchapur Darwaja.

Pacchapur Darwaja – Sudhagad Fort

This is an ingenious piece of engineering, augmenting what was already a natural gateway to the summit with additional defenses that would make it seriously difficult for any potential invader to get access to the fort proper from the southern elevation. Having passed through the gateway, be sure to explore the area immediately to the east (right) of the path, as here you will discover Chilkhati Buruj, probably the most accessible to Sudhagad Fort’s defensive towers.

Chilkhati Buruj – Sudhagad Fort

A further short ascent will bring you to the summit of the hill, and the interior of Sudhagad Fort. At first glance you’d be forgiven for thinking that there is nothing to see here at all, the vast plateau before you seems devoid of any noticeable features, aside from the multitude of rocks strewn across the lunar-like landscape and a large tank. But given time (you may need a rest anyway!), features do start to pop out.

There are stone built enclosures, possibly post-dating the period when the fort was in use, but also off in the distance the hint of slightly more substantial structures just asking to be investigated. Further still on the horizon at least four neighbouring forts can be seen; Sarasgad, Korigad, Ghangad, and Taila-Baila .

The western extent of the fort houses a couple of shrines worth exploring; a Shiv temple and Shri Siddheshwar temple, both are small but still receive devotees from time to time. These are located near a pond frequented by buffalo.

Further north and west are more ruined structures, some with elevations achieving head height. This area also contains a number of Samadhis, many of them half-buried in top soil, which perhaps suggests there are more lurking beneath that are now no longer visible.

Heading north-east towards an area of dense vegetation that covers the central part of the plateau will bring you to a reconstructed wadi, the former administration center of the fort. There’s not much to see inside the Wada, in fact it is often closed to visitors, but be sure to explore the small Mahadev temple that lies just behind it.

Wada – Sudhagad Fort

Mahadev Temple – Sudhagad Fort

From here, continue on the path that broadly contours around the northern edge of the plateau through thick vegetation. Soon it will open up once again into another vast expanse, from where possibly the highlights of a visit to this fort can be explored. First is a simple Gajalakshmi shrine.

Gajalakshmi Shrine – Suhagad Fort

Before you then reach the Borai Devi Mandir, the main temple at Sudhagad Fort.

Borai Devi Mandir – Sudhagad Fort

Previously this fort was known as Bhorapgad, named after the presiding deity to be found in this well maintained temple. Some scholars claim that the origins of the fort may date back to the 2nd century BCE, contemporary to the nearby caves at Thanale and Khadsamble, and was built initially to protect trading activities. Written sources inform us that there was a fort here by the early 1400s which was captured by the Bahamani Sultan in 1436, before being captured by the Marathas in 1657 and being renamed Sudhagad (meaning “the sweet one”). Being such a large fort and difficult to attack, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj did consider making it the capital of his kingdom. However, upon visiting the fort and surveying it, he chose Raigad instead as it was more centrally located.

Borai Devi Mandir – Sudhagad Fort

During the Peshwa era, the Pantsachivas of Bhor became the custodians of this fort. After the annexation of princely states in 1950 the fort became patron less and the fort fell into decay. It was never occupied by the British.

Borai Devi – Sudhgad Fort

Immediately outside the Borai Devi Mandir within the temple compound are a long line of Hero Stones (or Veergals) and Sati stones. There are thirty-six memorials in total in various states of preservation, mostly likely collected from in and around the fort and relocated outside this temple for safe keeping.

Hero and Sati Stones outside Borai Devi Mandir – Sudhagad Fort

For those who are unaware what a Hero Stone is, my blog article on “The Heroes of Loni Bhapkar” can provide more information. I am slightly obsessed with Hero Stones and the stories they can tell about these unnamed individuals. I may at some point analyse this cluster some more, but in the mean time I will just present here for reference.

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Beyond the temple compound lie yet more Samadhis and tombs, seemingly scattered around in a random fashion with almost certainly more residing under the topsoil. A couple of them were exact copies of examples I encountered at the very start of the trek. Nearby is also a Hanuman temple, now without a roof and enclosed by metal railings.

Samadhi’s. tombs and memorials – Sudhagad Fort

Continuing on and now heading east is the last of the main structures I explored in the fort, and possibly the highlight. The rocky path will start to descend down before reaching the hugely impressive Maha Darwaja (or “Big Gate”). It’s another impressive feat of engineering, with a natural outcrop of rock formally blocking a ravine having been sliced through and a gateway inserted.

Maha Darwaja (Big Gate) – Sudhagad Fort

Lion carvings on Maha Darwaja – Sudhagad Fort

At first it’s hard to differentiate between the natural excavated rock and the stone masonry that has been added to create this formidable gateway, it must have been quite an undertaking. The wooden door with metal spikes is the result of renovations here, but I imagine it is probably quite authentic to how the original would have looked.

Maha Darwaja partly carved out from solid rock – Sudhagad Fort

That concludes what has a fantastic and somewhat unexpected visit to Sudhagad Fort. It’s an easy day excursion out of Pune, and offers a great blend of trekking and heritage. If you are interested in doing this trek, please note that although there are tanks on the summit with water that seems safe to drink, it is wise to bring your own water (2L minimum) and snacks to keep those energy levels up.

Left : Ashok, Right : Omkar

My thanks to Omkar Kumbhojkar for accompanying me, and also Ashok who was our driver but decided he also would come along and explore with us.

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Categories: India, Maharashtra, Sudhagad Fort

Tagged as: Forts and Palaces