Located 1km south-west of Yelghol village in Maval Taluka in Pune District, Yelghol Cave is a Buddhist rock-cut excavation modifying what was a pre-existing natural cavern. This region is of course famous for Buddhist rock-cut complexes such as Karla, Bedse and Bhaja Caves, but such sites are complimented by a large number of simpler excavations, sometimes considered hermit dwellings for a small number of monks or nuns. Yelghol Cave is not explicitly mentioned at all by James Fergusson and James Burgess in “Cave temples of India, 1880”, aside from noting “the miscellaneous caves of Maval”.
The caves can only be reached on foot via a dirt track that leaves the village heading south-west. Parking the car at the Vitthal Rukmini Temple in the center of the village is your best option. The caves are known locally as “Gadad”, if you need to ask for directions it is best to ask for the “cave of dark”. My visit was during January 2023, I would imagine any trek here during or shortly after the monsoon season would be extra special with all the wild flower blooming everywhere.
The cave measures about 15m wide and 5m deep, and approx 3m high at the entrance. Chisel marks clearly show where the cavern has been modified, most notably at the back of the cave to create a flat vertical wall. Although chisel marks are present on the ceiling, no attempt has been made to make it particularly flat, perhaps there was concern of a potential collapse if this was attempted. Indeed the cave has quite a few natural fractures that are visible, some creating voids that could be mistaken for part of the man-made excavation.
The most obvious feature of Yelghol Cave is a 1.7m high rock-cut stupa, set in an apsidal recess on the right (north) side of the cave. It is undecorated with numerous holes on the top; three where relics were kept, and one central hole with grooves which suggests this stupa once had a harmika, probably made of wood.
The ceiling above the stupa has been purposely chiseled out forming what appears to be part of a chaityagriha, suggesting perhaps that the rest of this structure was made from wood. There are a few holes on the floor of the cave, but it is difficult to attribute many of them directly with such a structure.
A short distance to the left of the stupa is an underground rock-cut cistern, with what looks like provision for a wooden lid. Probably used for the storage of grain or the water, the cavity is full of debris now so it is impossible to gauge how large it is.
Along the back wall of the cave is a large bench, big enough to accommodate quite a large number of people. With no clear evidence for where these people were living, perhaps this suggests Yelghol Cave was a meeting place for rituals or other activities. Although the cave has no inscriptions, the provision for the relics of three holy monks/teachers within the stupa may suggest that this place was used for a significant period of time.
On the far left (south) of the cave is another excavation cut into the back wall, apsidal in plan but with no effort to create anything other than a flat ceiling. This probably once housed a wooden stupa as there is no evidence on the floor for a rock-cut equivalent that has since disappeared. This may have been the first stupa to reside at Yelghol Cave, replaced at a later date by a stone one at the opposite end of the cave.
Right – Bench along back wall of Yelghol Cave with curious carvings above.
The only other feature of note are a series of curious carvings that run along the flat vertical back wall of the cave above the long bench.
Here we have a number of very crudely etched figures, the quality of the work is almost child-like. Some of the images are identifiable; Ganesha, Hanuman, a drummer possibly flanked by dancers, the rest are too difficult for me to make out.
They are incredibly poorly executed, and in all likelihood were created sometime in the last century, perhaps by children from the local village.
Very little research has been undertaken at Yelghol Cave, to the extent that not even a tentative date has been attributed to it. Even the ASI noticeboard just outside the cave fails to give a date, which could be anywhere from the 2nd century BCE all the way through to the 4th century CE.
My thanks to Prashant Agale and Akash Kamble for accompanying me on this trip !
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Categories: India, Maharashtra
Kevin Standage 