One of the most delightful aspects of traveling across India to document historical sites is stumbling upon the unexpected—a place seemingly overlooked by the efforts of documentation. After a day spent exploring Pale, Uksan, and Padmavati Caves, our journey back to Pune led us through Navlakh Umbre in Maval, about 35 kilometers northwest of Pune.
Once a quaint village, Navlakh Umbre is now overshadowed by the automotive industry, morphing into what could easily be considered a town. The Talegaon MIDC Road slices through its heart, surrounded by sprawling factories and warehouses, while distant hills frame the landscape like a natural amphitheater.
At the junction of Mangarul Road, directly across from a power grid substation, a small hillock emerges from a patch of wasteland, accompanied by two overhead water tanks and an intriguing structure crowning its summit. Naturally, we were compelled to investigate…
This structure appears to be an Idgah (or Eidgah), boasting considerable age. In South Asian Islamic culture, an Idgah refers to an open-air enclosure typically situated outside or on the outskirts of a town or city, reserved for Eid prayers offered on the morning of Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha. It serves as a public space exclusively utilized for prayers during these festivals.
The east-facing façade features a prominent central mihrab, with steps immediately to the right, orienting anyone facing it towards Mecca in the west. Flanking the wall at either end are small turrets, with the northern one showing signs of slight damage.
Since my visit, this location has been pinpointed on Google Maps as Bajrang Tekdi. “Bajrangbali” is another name for Hanuman, the monkey god of Hindu mythology. Subsequently, an image of Hanuman has been carved into the wall above the steps, and a large orange flag now stands adjacent to the monument.
Determining the age of this structure poses some challenges, and while I am no expert, placing it sometime in the 17th century seems reasonably accurate.
The history of the village of Navlakh Umbre predates this structure significantly, with land grants dating as far back as 1235 CE. Legend has it that the name “Navlakh” or “nine lakhs” originated during the Diwali holidays, when the daughter of a Mughal officer of Umbre requested a gift from her father. He obliged by ordering her to be paid a day’s toll receipts from the turnpike on the bridle path of Umbre, which amounted to nine hundred thousand tankhas, roughly equivalent to £2800 (Rs. 28,000). This event supposedly gave the village its name, Navlakh.
The original name of the village, Umbre, may have been “Oomri,” as documented in 1470 CE by the Russian traveler Athanasius Nikitin of Twer in his narrative, “The Journey Beyond Three Seas.” Nikitin, one of the earliest Europeans to travel to and document his visit to India after Niccolò de’ Conti, stayed in the village of Oomri for several days on his journey from the coastal port of Chaul to Junnar. During his travels, Nikitin observed and recorded various aspects of Indian society, including its population, social system, government, military, economy, religion, lifestyles, and natural resources. His journal, now translated into English, serves as a valuable historical source on India during that period.
I must admit, prior to this encounter, I had not come across Nikitin’s account of his 15th-century travels in India. It’s remarkable how delving into the history of a structure and its surroundings can lead to fascinating tangents and the discovery of new narratives.
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Categories: India, Maharashtra, Navlakh Umbre Idgah
Kevin Standage 
Loved this. Terrific to publish it on Eid!
I’d not heard of the intrepid Russian traveller before, either.
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Thank you !
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