India

Siddheswar Temple – Bahulara

Situated 22 km north-west of the temple town of Bishnupur just south of the Dwarakeswar river, the 10th – 11th century CE Siddheswar Temple at Bahulara is considered one of the finest early rekha deul brick temples in Bengal. This lofty brick temple reaching a height of 19m rests on a high platform, and is noted for its rich and intricate carvings on the exterior walls.

In terms of decoration and architectural design, the west-facing temple has a strong affinity with the temples of Odisha, with some of the original plaster still surviving that would have once covered the temple exterior. This plaster work is considered contemporary and part of the original temple design, as it mirrors the brick ornamentation beneath.

Some surviving plaster work at Siddheswar Temple at Bahulara

Exploring the temple compound it became abundantly clear that this site’s origins and history is perhaps more complex than I initially thought. To the south of the temple lies a cluster of brick built foundations, looking suspiciously like Buddhist stupa and Chaitya platforms.

The topmost portion of the shikhra, called the amalaka, has been damaged at some point in the past, and despite recent restorative efforts by the government much of the temple’s original ornamentations had fallen prey to the ravages of time. That said, the temple which is now under the protection of the A.S.I. has been sympathetically restored, and the compound is a pleasant space that is very well maintained.

The sanctum today enshrines a Shiva linga, behind which are images of Gaṇesha, Tirthankara Parsvanatha, and Mahisasuramardini. So it would appear in addition to evidence of Buddhism at this site there has also been a Jain influence at some point.

Inside the sanctum of Siddheswar Temple at Bahulara

It is quite possible that this temple was originally built as a Jain/Buddhist shrine and later on got reconsecrated as a Shaivite monument by the Malla monarchs of Bishnupur.   Archaeologists have identified various habitational and ritualistic mounds surrounding this temple, suggesting that perhaps this was a thriving Buddhist center at some point in ancient times.

Prior to the dominance of Shaivism and Shaktism, this whole area was influenced by Buddhism and Jainism from the late millenniums BCE to the early centuries CE, prior to the kingdom of Mallabhum being established in circa 8th century CE.

On passing through the entrance to the sanctum it also becomes clear that the present porch was not part of the original temple design, but has been added on, probably in relatively recent times. Behind the current doorway lies the original old doorway, with its tall triangular opening of overlapping courses of brick, now hidden from external view. The Sun Temple at Sonatapal is a great example of how the entrance originally looked.

Being located so close to the famous terracotta temple town of Bishnupur means the Siddheswar Temple at Bahulara receives very few visitors. Aside from a few devotees visiting the temple I was the only tourist at the site for well over an hour. It’s a great shame as this place does offer something a little different both in terms of architecture and antiquity. If you find yourself with some free time while in Bishnupur then this is well worth the short excursion to visit.


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5 replies »

  1. Glad to see you back in a country you really love. Like most people, I’ve only heard about Bishnupur but not this temple in Bahulara. One of the things I like the most from your blog is you introduce your readers to many centuries- and millennia-old temples which are otherwise relatively unknown to non-Indians. Plus, your photos always manage to beautifully capture intricate details that often adorn those structures.

    Liked by 2 people

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