After a busy day exploring the lesser known Buddhist sites of Bhaja Cave 26, Patan and Yelghol Caves north of Pune, my day came to an unexpected end exploring a cluster of monuments in Talegaon Dabhade.
Baneshwar Temple
Construction of this temple is attributed to Sardar Khanderao Dabhade, a devotee of Shiva who built a number of Shiva temples in the vicinity, and was completed in the early 18th century. It’s a wonderfully peaceful setting, with a Nandi Mandapa in front of the temple and an impressive tank (Pushkarni), known locally as Naske Thale.
The temple appears to be well off any tourist trail, which is a bit of a surprise considering the setting, the chances are you will have this entire place to yourself.
Samadhi of Sarsenapati Khanderao Dabhade
Immediately north of the Baneshwar Temple, tucked away under trees and probably missed by many visitors, is the Samadhi of Sarsenapati Khanderao Dabhade.
This is an intriguing mausoleum, the reddish-orange painted relief carvings while not exquisitely detailed are still well executed and cover the exterior on all four sides of the initial platform.
Khanderao Dabhade is the founding patriarch of the Sarsenapati Dabhade family of Talegaon Dabhade. He was the eldest of the two sons of Yesaji Dabhade (bodyguard of the Maratha King, Shivaji) and the grandson of Bajaji Dabhade. He was an accomplished Sardar of the Maratha Empire, most notably from 1705–1716 when he led the Maratha Empire forces in Baroda. Upon his return to Satara from Gujurat on 11th January 1717, he was given the hereditary title of Sardar Senapati (or Sarsenapati, Commander-in-Chief) by Shahuji, the grandson of Shivaji.
Khanderao Dabhade built the Induri Fort also known as the ‘Sarsenapati Dabhade Gadhi’ in 1720–21, eight years before he died at Juna Rajwada in Talegaon Dabhade on 27th September 1729.
The Deccan College in Pune, the third oldest educational institution in India, was founded by the Dakshina Fund bequeathed by Sarsenapati Khanderao Dabhade. In 1821, the Dakshina Fund was named the Hindoo College by Mountstuart Elephistone, the Governor of Bombay Presidency. In 1864, the College was renamed as Deccan College as it serves the whole Deccan region of India.
Baman Doh
Even if some visitors stumble across the somewhat concealed Samadhi of Sarsenapati Khanderao Dabhade, far fewer will venture further north-west for 50m through a small section of woodland to discover a bit of a hidden gem.
Just 10m south of a railway track that runs east-west is a small step-well known as Baman Doh.
A small flight of steps leads down to a circular pool, with a passage way to one side that flanks the pool via a series of archways. Some efforts have been made to remove vegetation from around the structure, but it’s clear this place has been mostly forgotten about.
There’s no hints as to when the well was constructed, although I would place it broadly contemporary with the Baneshwar Temple.
Kedareshwar Mandir
A little further north is the recently renovated Kedareshwar Mandir and Ghumtachi Vihir Step well. The temple compound was closed so I was unable to venture in to explore further.
Semadhi of Sarsenapati Umabai Dabhade
Retracing my steps back past Baneshwar Temple, it’s worth noting a cluster of Samadhi’s that flank the road leading to the temple.
One of these belongs to Sarsenapati Umabai Dabhade, the youngest wife of Khanderao Dabhade, who was the first and only woman to become Commander-in-Chief of the Maratha forces in 1732. Umabai died on 28th November 1753 at Nadgemodi in Pune.
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Categories: India, Maharashtra
Kevin Standage 
Hello Kevin. I love reading your blogs. Do you do drone photography also? I was looking for a good photographer for my art project. If interested, please email me at rashmighosh.art@gmail.com with your charges.
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I’m afraid that currently I do not do any drone photography, I sense that might cause issues at many of the places I visit (the ones that have security or caretakers)
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Dear Kevin,
I so enjoy your blogs. When each one arrives I down tools to relish it. I’ve just sent this one on to Richard Holkar, scion of the Holkar branch of Marathas and thus descended from another great Maratha women, Ahilya Bai.
I’ve been studying and visiting India for almost half a century, since 1976, while living and working in London and a 20-year period in New York – returned to the UK in 202. I make the most of every day when I’m in India, but there is so much left to see – that’s part of the joy. I’m keen to explore the Krishna River basin next, in January, inspired by the landmark exhibition of early Buddhist art at the Met in New York, which displays monumental and classy new finds from that area. I think there is interesting weaving too; I’m a generalist but buildings, weaving and significant aspects of local cultures particularly interest me.
I’m in India at the moment, at Ramakrishna Vivekananda Mission outside Kolkata, where my charity supports some of the children. Then I’m in Kolkata for a few days, then Delhi for 21-23 November before returning home. I wonder where you live? And I wonder if I could ‘buy you a cup of coffee’ as you suggest at the bottom of your blog – or, better still, give you a lunch/drink/supper?
With warm wishes, L My India mobile, which works only when I’m in India, is 9810402287
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Hi Louise,
Thanks for your message and all your kind words. I’m based just outside Reading in the UK, and usually travel to India for two month at the very start of each year. I’m not sure yet if I will be able to make that trip in early 2023. I always start off in Pune for 3-4 weeks as I have many friends there (ex-work colleagues mostly), after that I head off somewhere new to explore. Suffice to say it takes a ton of planning, but the rewards in doing that can be overwhelming at times. 🙂
Kevin.
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Hello Kevin
Greetings from Dilip Joshi, Kolhapur/Pune. It is always a joy to see your lovely images, which transform the common into something refreshing and vibrant. I like your Talegaon Dabhade pictures. How long are you in Pune? Would love to meet you over lunch / dinner. Missed meeting you during your visit to Zapurza Museum. I shall be in Pune from 22nd onwards for a week. Regards Dilip
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Hi Dilip ! I still have a massive backlog of places to blog about, including the wonderful Zapurza museum which was a complete delight and pleasure to visit. I’m currently back in the uk !
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