Situated within the confines of the Rajbari complex in Ambika Kalna, the Giri Govardhan temple, often overshadowed by the grandeur of the Lalji Temple in the same vicinity, deserves a closer look due to its distinctive and uncommon architecture. Constructed in 1758 CE, a mere nineteen years after the Lalji Temple facing it, this temple stands out with a style rarely found in West Bengal.
Notably, the temple’s roof is a striking feature, meticulously designed to resemble a mountain, adorned with a multitude of deities and creatures from the animal kingdom. Tigers, lions, crocodiles, fishes, and two imposing serpents intricately weave through the boulder-like structure. The architectural symbolism becomes apparent with the temple’s name, as it pays homage to Govardhan Hill, a sacred Hindu site in the Mathura district of Uttar Pradesh.
This hill serves as the backdrop for numerous legends related to Lord Krishna’s life, believed to be embodied in the earth of the hill. The temple’s design reflects the idyllic sanctuary of Govardhan Hill, depicting scenes of Krishna and his brother Balarama wandering among groves, pools, caves, and cow-pastures. The waterfalls, garden-grove, water tanks, and flora create an Eden-like setting, showcasing Krishna’s adventures with Radha.
The single-storey temple features five north-facing arched openings towards the Lalji temple and a single arched entrance to the west. The central arch of the main entrance is flanked by peacocks, symbolically linked to Krishna.
Inside, the back wall displays panels portraying scenes from Krishna’s life, although the poor condition of some makes them challenging to decipher. Notably, one panel depicts the king of peacocks offering Krishna beautiful feathers during his mesmerizing flute playing and dancing around Govardhan Hill, which is how Krishna came to have such feathers in his crown.
Other scenes on long horizontal panels along the back wall showcase gopis and numerous cows, also suggesting a connection to Krishna’s time on Govardhan Hill. These are in even poorer condition, and very hard to make out now.
Ambika Kalna stands out from other towns in West Bengal due to temples like Giri Govardhan, offering a diverse range of Bengali temple architecture within a small, easily explorable area. While Bishnupur is rightly acclaimed as West Bengal’s temple town for its terracotta work, Ambika Kalna presents a unique variety of temple styles. When exploring the Rajbari complex, take a moment to discover this unassuming temple often overlooked by the majority of visitors.
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Categories: Ambika Kalna, Giri Govardhan Temple - Ambika Kalna, India, West Bengal
Kevin Standage 