Purandare Wada – Saswad

India

By kevinstandagehotography on April 10, 2024 • ( 7 Comments )

Purandare Wada (also known as Sarkar Wada) – Saswad

The origins of Saswad (30km south-east of Pune) date back to at least the 13th century, but its transformation into a prominent Maratha town occurred primarily in the late 17th century. It rose to prominence as the capital of the Purandare family in the early 18th century, following its restoration to the royal family by Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj of Satara during the coronation of Balaji Vishwanath Bhatta as the Peshwa. The 18th century marked a significant period of evolution and development for the town, witnessing a flourishing architectural renaissance.

Saswad underwent a transformation along the banks of the Karha river, following the principles of Maratha Town Planning, gradually expanding into a larger village over time. This evolution involved the amalgamation of small clusters or “Wadis” to facilitate village expansion through centralization. New “Bajarpeths” (market places) were established outside the original village boundaries, illustrating a move towards decentralization. Eventually, some “Peths” (residential neighbourhoods) and “Puras” were integrated into the original village area.

During the late 18th century, numerous Kasba Villages were elevated to the status of towns, with some, like Pune, even transforming into cities (“Shahars”). This transition was facilitated by the support and patronage of influential leaders and administrators. The village underwent new residential arrangements to accommodate the increasing population, while existing Bajarpeths adequately fulfilled the basic needs of the residents.

Pune and Satara emerged as significant political headquarters and key destinations within the Maratha Empire, receiving substantial financial patronage. Similarly, Saswad, as a Maratha Town, exemplifies the transformation of a Kasba Village into a small town during the mid-18th century.

During the reign of Shivaji Maharaj in the 17th century CE, numerous trustworthy and capable individuals ascended to the position of Sardars (administrators of a particular region), with villages granted to them as jagirs (land grant or estate given by a ruler). Likewise, the Purandare family of Saswad held significance during the 18th century. Following the delegation of duties to the Purandares as administrators of the Peshwa’s affairs, they played a crucial role in patronizing architecture, fostering the development of Saswad as their capital, and prominently constructing Wadas and temples.

Located in the heart of modern day Saswad, the Purandare Wada (also known as Sarkar Wada), stands as the oldest structure in the heart of Saswad. Erected in 1710 by Ambaji Purandare for residential purposes, this imposing fortress, commonly referred to as Gadhi (any structure protected by huge fortification wall), at the time cost Rs. 50,000 to construct.

Today, the Wada is almost permanently shut, and special permission is required to gain access. Although no prior arrangements were made, I was fortunate to have a distant relative of the Purandare family accompanying me on my visit, and after speaking with a few of the locals we were able to find someone who could show us around.

Two octagonal bastions flanking the main entrance to Purandare Wada – Saswad

The Wada, with its square shape and north-facing courtyard, is flanked by two octagonal bastions and a towering entrance gate, known as Dindi Darvaja (with a small door opening in the main door), standing at 10 feet tall and constructed of timber with protective spikes known as Gajakhile (spikes protecting the Wada from Elephant attacks).

Entering Purandare Wada (the Dindi Darvaja was a little stubborn !)

The fortified complex boasts a main entrance facing east, with walls soaring approximately 30 feet high. The grand entrance door, spanning 25 feet, allows passage for an Ambari (a seat for king or monarch on an elephant).

Elephant spikes on Dindi Darvaja

Constructed primarily with Basalt Stone and Pustaki Vita (bricks specially from the Peshwa Period having less thickness) bound by Lime mortar, the Wada (large enclosure) and its fortified walls exude strength and durability. Adjacent to the fortified walls stands a Ganpati temple, its facade also oriented towards the east.

Initial entrance towards the Wada, and the Ganpati Temple

Notably, the Wada features unique Panchkoni Sajje at each corner of the fortification wall, as well as at its center, distinguishing it from other structures of its time.

Left : Corner projections of the Wada, known as Panchkoni Sajje
Right : The shikhara of Ganpati Temple as seen from within the Wada

Adjacent to the initial Wada stands a second residence for the descendants of the Purandare family, its entrance mirroring that of the primary Wada. Upon entry, one is greeted by a spacious Diwankhana (the living or drawing room) adorned with intricate timber carvings and a grand fountain at its entrance, known as Karanjacha Chowk.

Karanjacha Chowk of Purandare Wada, with central fountain and well

Within the Wada, one encounters a Devdi leading to the main Chowk, Phadacha Chowk, the first entrance courtyard in a Wada.

Entering the main Phadacha Chowk of Purandare Wada
Ganesh carved above the entranceway

The columns, crafted from timber, feature simple Talkhade (stone column base) embellishments. Above them, intricately carved Stambhashirsha columns (lotus shaped column heads) bear motifs of Kelphool leaves, a motif similar to a banana carved in timber, seen usually on arches, emblematic of the Maratha Period.

Elaborate carved wooden motifs within the Wada

What becomes immediately apparent as one starts exploring the Wada is its dilapidated condition. All the structures are crumbling away, with seemingly no efforts made to stem that tide of deterioration. Although access to the upper floors is possible, one has to take care with every step as much of the structure has collapsed down to the lower levels.

Purandare Wada is now crumbling before our eyes

What remains a mystery to me is why this historically important structure has been left to decay in this fashion. Clearly it is in private ownership, but there is no drive or incentive to restore, renovate, or even just make safe what is still standing. It would of course require eye-watering amounts of investment, and perhaps the structure has simply deteriorated too much now. I fear the inevitable outcome will be that slowly this entire Wada will return to nature, and all we will have are the images from a few fortunate visitors to remind us of the grand nature of what once stood here. Purandare Wada is apparently a listed Grade 3 Heritage Site.

For all the decay and everything that has been lost, there are still elements of the Wada that are notable, and still survive. The walls of the Wada still bear the original Hirmuji paint (a type of paint used in 17th and 18th Century), some timber carvings are still intact with peacock and floral motifs, but most notable of all are a couple of frescoes that I came across.

The first fresco can be found on the second floor, in what appears to have been mill room. Here there is a painting of widows draped in red sarees with their faces painted in black, grinding wheat to make flour.

Widow fresco – Purandare Wada

On the floor in front of the painting there are still circular impressions, I assume where the grinding actually took place.

Room where wheat was milled by widows – Purandare Wada

The painting is a stark reminder of the cultural and social situation for widows back then, who were considered as outcasts and were often confined to isolated spaces, not seen in public, and given household tasks.

From viewing other images of this fresco online, I know its condition has rapidly deteriorated in just the last few years, almost certainly beyond the point of reversing that situation.

The same fresco five years earlier in 2009, the rate of decay is alarming
(source: https://shindebai.home.blog/2019/02/14/an-encounter-with-the-past/)

The second fresco also located on an upper level is even more interesting, and easily missed as well. This would seem to be much finer work, an expansive scene that occupies the entire face of an end wall to a room. Faces and limbs can be made out, but what exactly the scene is depicting is less obvious. In a handful of years, this painting will be gone.

Large fresco occupying an entire wall

Detail of faces on the large fresco

After capturing the exquisite detail, I took a wider shot of the entire wall with the intent of processing the image at home to see if any further detail could be extracted. What I discovered was quite surprising…

Post processing the image in Photoshop reveals far more detail…

Clearly we have a scene depicting a sex act, not something I was expecting to come across on the walls of an 18th century Wada. The poses bear a striking resemblance to a famous erotic carving on the Kandariya Mahadeva Temple at Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh.

This fresco at Purandare Wada is very similar to the erotic sculpture on the Kandariya Mahadeva Temple at Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh.

I’m sure this isn’t a unique image for the time, but I have certainly never seen such an image painted on the wall of a Wada or fort anywhere else in India. If any of my readers can cite other parallels, I would be very interested to hear from you !

Before long the plaster this scene is painted upon will crumble away and be lost forever, while that is a depressing thought, I feel grateful and fortunate to have had the opportunity to record this before it completely disappears.

The lineage of the Purandare family dates back to the 12th century, attributed to Mudgalbhatta Purandare, the progenitor who migrated from the Karnataka region to Maharashtra. Trimbak Bhaskar, considered the central figure of the family in the 17th century, received the Sabnisi (management rights) of Purandar Fort from Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. This event serves as evidence of Trimbak Bhaskar’s association with the Purandare clan.

Initially, the Purandare family served as Shiledars (officers taking care of weapons, horses and other equipment required for warfare) in the Maratha land. However, their status elevated over time, transitioning to the role of Sardars, particularly with Ambajipant Purandare assuming administrative duties during the Maratha Period.

Subsequently, with the coronation of Balaji Vishwanath Bhatta as Peshwa, the Purandares were entrusted with significant rights and responsibilities. The bond between the Purandares and Balaji Vishwanath Bhatta strengthened during the 1690s and endured until the decline of the Peshwa Empire. Notable figures such as Dengle, Vinchurkar, and Nilkanthrao Purandare stood alongside them. Nilkanthrao Purandare notably contributed Rs. One Lakh for the development of a village before the eventual decline of the Peshwa empire.

Ambajipant became the Mutalik (an agent of the minister having responsibilities of the office) of the Peshwas, while Malhar Tukdev was appointed Phadnis, with the Modhave village allocated to him as his jagir. Ambajipant also held positions as Potnis (cash keeper) and oversaw the Jamadarkhana (place where treasure or money was kept) of the Peshwas, effectively placing the Purandares in control of the treasury and facilitating developmental endeavors.

Prior to this, Purandare and Bhatt took charge of the Pune region under the orders of Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj. During the siege of the fort of Sinhagad by the Mughals, Purandare provided armory and military equipment for the Maratha soldiers. However, in response to Mughal agitations, Gomaji Vishwanath Purandare negotiated a ransom of Rs. 50,000, leading to the lifting of the siege of Sinhagad.

Time to lift our own personal siege of Purandare Wada, and padlock the main gates

It was a complete privilege to be able to gain access to Purandare Wada and record the structure. Despite the sad condition the building is in today, the Wada still exudes the essence of its era, serving as a living testament to the illustrious history of the Purandares family.

Much of the information regarding the history of Saswad and the Purandare family came from the paper Purandare Clan of Saswad as Architectural Patrons by Ar. Siddhant Gadade and Dr. Vaishali Latkar of the Department of Architectural Conservation, Sinhgad College of Architecture, Pune.

My thanks also to Amruta Purandare for accompanying me on this excursion from Pune. Without her help and persistence I doubt we would ever have managed to step inside the Wada !

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Categories: India, Maharashtra, Purandare Wada - Saswad

Tagged as: Forts and Palaces